Departure

" If our lives are dominated by a search for happiness, then perhaps few activities reveal as much about the dynamics of this quest- in all its ardour and paradoxes- then our travels. They express, however inarticulately, an understanding of what life might be about, outside of the constraints of work and of the struggle for survival. Yet rarely are they considered to present philosophical problems-that is, issues requiring thought beyond the practical. We are inundated with advice on where to travel to, but we hear little of why and how we should go, even though the art of travel seems naturally to sustain a number of questions neither so simple nor so trivial, and whose study might in modest ways contribute to an understanding of what the Greek philosophers beautifully termed eudaimonia, or "human flourishing"

-Alain de Botton, The Art of Travel, 9

"It never gets cold way down here.

I can live off of watermelons and beer.

and I'll never go hungry; I will never go home.

never call to my lover, "lover, leave me alone."

 -Phosphorescent, South of America

I'll try to keep the blog updated when I'm out and about, until then...

Voy a Peru, Chile y Argentina!  

Southbound.

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August 5-October 2, 2011 

Hop 

Excerpts from my journal

Day 82 August 11, 2011, PA, MD, WV, VA

The moon and stars above Pen Mar Park were bright and beautiful. I, however, could not fall asleep. Pesky teenagers kept making noise in the park until 12 or 1 and the trains running the mason dixon line chugged by every two hours. I was laying on my tarp feeling itchy and sweaty. Once I finally did fall asleep I was awoken by the obnoxious sounds of a couple having sex only 30 yards away from me. This is not how I wanted to start my big day...At 1:45 AM I decided to give up on sleep and just start hiking. I made my way back to the MD line and started out. The first few miles were rocky, slow and frustrating. I did not think I was gonna be able to do the 4-state 50 mile day. Throughout the dark morning I started to feel a bit better. The shining stars, and setting full moon really picked up my spirits. By 5:45 I had done 10 miles, and right there I set a schedule for the rest of the day. 10 miles for every 4 hours. 6-10 AM, 10-2 PM, 2-6 PM and 6-10 PM. If I followed this pace I would finish the day. It became my goal to shave off a little time with each 10 mile section. All throughout the day I saw animals: 4 fawns, 2 buck, 8 doe, 2 goats (wild?), and a screech owl. By the end of my 3rd section I had shaved off a full hour and had walked through Mt. Vernon Park and some very historic sections (Civil War battlefields...etc). I started to feel a bit delirious and out of it during my 4th leg, but when I hit Harpers Ferry well before 5, I was encouraged. I ate a filling supper and sat at a picnic table to rest. I popped a few Ibuprofen for my feet and crossed the Shenandoah River. The last 9 miles in WV and Virginia were not bad except for a few rocky sections. I hit my destination, David Lesser Memorial Shelter at 8:35 PM. Just at dark. Now I rest. Hiking 50 miles is a long day. Welcome to VA!

Day 89 August 18, VA

The rat! I heard scurrying in the night and I was pretty sure the culprit was bigger than a mouse. So during one of my pee breaks I took a look and found him. A rat! The size of a small cat. It actually was kind of cute. Other than that I slept really well...BUT I awoke to a sock missing. A rat and a sock thief. I was scared I would be down a sock, but after 10 minutes of searching I found it tucked in a crack on the upper level of the shelter- phew. I didn't leave the shelter until 10 or so because I thought I was only doing 13 today. I took another long lunch break and started hiking on when I decided, why not do 20 into Waynesboro, then a 5 tomorrow instead of a 12 and a 13. So I decided at about 3 PM to book it. I saw 2 bears today and one nice 8 point. I left Shenandoah and the manicured trail behind. I met a NOBO about to flip flop, got a ride into Waynesboro with a political ranter from Mr. D's old school in Charlottesville. I showered at the YMCA and visited the public library. I slept on a park bench behind the YMCA. A good day. I'm glad I decided to go to town because I would have been bored doing a 13 on a beautiful day, plus the shower felt great, first one since August 4th!

Day 102 August 31, VA 

I woke up early for the big day, 34 miles to Chestnut Knob Shelter. High Life, " you are doing 34? well I guess I will come with you." Great. I passed Harvey's Mill Shelter by 9:45 and banged out 15 miles by noon. We were flying. The trail was flat, easy and followed a lot of forest roads for the first part of the day. I lunched at Laurel Creek (site of an infamous trail murder) and filled up my water bottles. From here on out, 14.8 miles remaining, the trail turned pretty tough. The climbs were steep and had rugged footing. I saw a large rattler about 5 feet off the trail and also saw plenty of deer. I came down into Walker Gap, tired, out of water, and ready to be finished for the day. I took the trail to a spring but the spring was completely dry. I walked out to the road to look for another source and HL, but no one or water was around. I ran back to the spring to dry and dig, but no luck. All I could find was puddles on the road, water laying in the deep mud tracks of a truck. I took it, I had to other choice. I filtered the mud water with my bandanna but my water bottles still looked like the Conestoga after a good rain. I was completely pissed off and had to climb another 1,000 feet of elevation to a shelter, which had no water source. I treated the water I had and tried not to think of getting Guardia. The shelter had a great view of the sunset and stars, but I struggled to enjoy them.

 Day 123 September 23, TN/NC

I slept well through the rain. I'm surprised that it has not been colder up here in the Smokies during my time. I'm thankful for that because of how wet it has been. I headed for Fontanta Dam expecting it to be downhill and dry. The day however was a tougher hike than I expected. My body, mainly toes, were in pain as I went up and down the whole way into Fontana. I also hit a hard downpour about midway through the morning. I saw one bear up in a tree. A lot of day hikers were hiking toward Shuckstack fire tower and kept asking me how far? how long? 123 days and 2,000 + miles was what I wanted to say. I just said about a mile to every one of them. I made my way down to the Fontana Dam and visitors center around noon. A damn big dam. As I took off my boots, William came out to talk to me. He offered me a ride into the village, which I heartily accepted. Him and his wife were very kind. I recharged at the F.D. village Gen'l store, laundromat, restaurant/ grill. I had a great BBQ sandwich and washed it down with a Southern Tier Double IPA and two Yuenglings. Best beer on the trail. I dried my culprit wet socks by the quarter fed machines. My shuttle back was 3 dollars. I got a free shower then hung out at the Hilton Shelter. I got a nice fire started and read comics. A good end to the day, 13.8 miles hiked

 Day 131 October 2, GA

A hungover morning. Pounding head but the hot fire is a cure. Weed and rum in excess the night before and 8 miles from the end. Legs moving and more food donations from Kinder helped me on my way. Solar Joe and Steve are gonna drop off beer for me at the base of Springer Mountain. I reached waterfalls, small creeks meandering through rhododendron groves and cute shelters. I passed a family-they gave me licorice. Others talked to me. "How long have you been hiking?" They couldn't believe I was soon finishing and neither could I, to be frank. I reached the Springer Mountain forest road a bit after high noon. I found a note and 2 other campers--both of which pointed me to the beer hidden behind a big old oak tree. I threw it on my back and climbed the last 1.1 miles of the entire Appalachian Trail. The final mountain was not much of a mountain. Sunday afternoon, so groups of day hikers were canoodling around. I blended in, thankfully. I touched it. I walked it. the whole way. Maine, 2000 miles. Had I? I didn't feel like I could brag, or be exuberant...It was too deep and significant. It was the end and I was a little scared of regular living. I stayed on top of Springer for 3 1/2 hours. I chatted with some, drank some beers, took pictures, napped and thought of my journey. I threw my walking stick off Springer Mountain. I thanked it and I cried, my maple-wood companion. Before too long, I was alone and retracing my steps. I was picked up around 4 by Hiker Hostel. I knew I could sleep, shower, drink and eat well, but what does it matter?

Northbound.

May 10-July 24, 2011

Hop, Bot and Still Smiling
Excerpts from my journal

Day 3. May 12, PA
A dry and brisk night last night. We set out North around 9:30 (est.) I ate a clif bar and fruit snack. Had my first poop of the trail today.  We passed near Hawk Mtn. and hiked 11 miles to Allentown shelter. We met "Lone Wolf McQuaid" (A criminal on the run and a creepy guy). He admitted to being a convicted thief and then asked Dan how much money he had on him. We left shortly after, amused and a little frightened. We stopped at Blue Mtn. Summit B&B for a water refill and face wash. We hiked up across highway 309 until knife's edge and Bear Rocks. Knife's edge was a scary ridge-hike-scramble-climb. We dropped packs at Bear's Rocks. Around 19 miles today. 3rd straight of sunshine! I don't expect this to keep up. We had a small bug-preventing fire and a few jolly laughs over dinner. There is another group camping nearby. No cloud in the sky, no fly!

Day 7. May 16, NJ

Last night stormed and rained like hell. Lightening and thunder kept me awake for a good part of the night. Water got Dan and I pretty good and I ended up having to put on my raincoat in the tent; never a good scenario. We woke up and did the best we could. Sunfish Pond was the first stop on today's rainy hike. It is the southern-most glacier lake in the US (according to Lis). The fog made the lake very mysterious. I ran into the hiker from Gerogria and the motorcycle. His name is McCord. Also today I hiked mainly alone, out in front of the others. Great wildflowers but the lookouts were just cloud walls. The forecast is rain all week. Hopefully our spirits stay high. We hiked 20 miles until Brink Road Shelter. Finally a dry night! The rain does still fall outside the walls, tomorrow we'll take a lighter day and stop in for some groceries.


Day 28 June 6, MA
Today is Josh's birthday. A splendid day for hiking and to be out in the wild. I took a naked swim in Benedict Pond. Hammer saw me drying off on a rock and told me there were some young kids on the other side of the lake watching me skinny-dip. Oh well. I saw raccoons, snakes and otters today. I hiked up Wilcox peak and down to Shaker Campsite. Hammer came on by, he is a really kick ass senior hiker. He shared many stories and charm. Makes me think of the joy of the hiking and this lifestyle. He will will hike for this month then head up to N.H. to camp. He shared tons of trail and resupply knowledge with us. He loved N.H. and Maine. Got me really excited for the rest of the trip. He said when he hiked thru he just wanted to keep going. He spends a month in N.H. giving out trail magic, reminds me of Dennis. 16 miles hiked today. Also met stretch and zipper and MorAbraham. Good all around night for talk.


Day 50 June 29, NH

Ethan Pond morning-cold, cloudy and beautiful. We ate early to make sure we hit Lake of the Coulds Hut in time for a work-for-stay. We hiked 3 easy miles down to Crawford Notch, A huge mtn. (Webster) stared us right in the face. The trail skirted rt. 302 and headed up to Webster Cliffs Trail. The valley looked very majestic. The weather is cloudy, windy but warm. The climb was steep up to the "Prezi Ridge" as the crews and caretakers call it. We took lunch at Mizpah Hut and the crew told us we should have good luck with work at lake of the clouds hut. The second half to today's hike were some of the best views and miles of the trip so far. the weather, perfect. the views, for miles and miles. I even found the campsite Josh and I used 4 years earlier. We took many pictures and savored the views above the tree line. We arrived at LOTC Hut around 3 PM and successfully got work for stay. Lis and I cleaned out their refrigerators and washed dishes for a night and a meal. The best on trail meal of the trip so far. All we could eat, ham, homemade bread, tomato soup, guacamole, chips, salad, peas, sun dried tomatoes, pies, pizza, coffee. Wow, unbeatable. 

Day 55 July 4, ME
The Mahoosucs and Maine. Maine welcomed us with open whiskey bottles and beautiful mountains. We hiked 16 tough miles through lakes, alpine zones, and valleys. We all took a sip of whiskey at the border. One state left! We camped right in front of the Mahoosuc Notch. "The longest mile on the AT"  and I'm pretty excited for it tomorrow.
Trail Magic- GORP on top of East Peak; jungle-gym mountain and a wind blown beautiful landscape. My boot developed a tear in the outer-edge (right boot) I'm keeping my eye on it and hoping it doesn't grow. < 281 miles to go.

Day 64 July 13, ME
Last night storms threatened so we quick threw on the fly. Luckily they held off. We opted not to do the pancake breakfast at Harrisons. We hiked 3.7 miles to the Kennebec River and caught the canoe ferry which only runs 9-11 this time of year. The river is said to rise 2-4 feet without warning because of a dam upstream. A brief road crossing and then 5 flat buggy miles to Pleasant Pond. Dan and I walked down to a quiet pond for lunch. Only to be interrupted by a loud and obnoxious group of 8th graders. Splashing , yelling and everything annoying ensued. The climb up Pleasant Pond Mtn. wasn't bad, it was nice to feel like I was back in the mountains. Maine is beautiful. The lakes are everywhere; crystal clear and expansive. I love hiking lake to lake. Dan and Lis pumped as I found a perfect (bug free) campsite. The fire is burning under the pines. Met a couple and 2 dogs by Moxie Lake. They said there is a history teaching position open @ the local high school.

Day 75 July 24, ME
Up at 5. Pop tart for breakfast and time to summit. I hike d out front, passing the day hikers around Katadhin Stream Falls. The morning was cool-perfect for hiking. We met up at the boulder field. The edges were steep and a bit scary. We all talked about how our parents would fare on the same hike. The weather was Alpine; cold, windy and cloudy. It was still around 8 AM because we started hiking around 6:20. Sharp boulders and hand hold climbing made me happy just to have a day-pack on. I felt strong. We hiked into the clouds and before long the silhouette of Katadhin's peak. The Northern Terminus at last! A rush of emotion and of course no words could come. The sky stayed cloudy for us 3 at the top. We tried to wait for families but it was too too cold I hiked down to find Mom, Dad, Emily and Temple just into the alpine zone. I hiked back up to the summit as the sky cleared. It was beautiful- great views of knife's edge and the 100 mile wilderness. I wish Dan and Lis would have been there to see it. It was fun to hike with the family. Dad and Emily were super excited and tired. 

straggling behind water
no interesting facts to tell
I swear too many times
and listen to more times to the yell

I hear voices in the brook
Why are they always elusive?
turn my head; not by choice
fire tonight or just stars?

simplicity to the point of fear
well in over my head
miles this, miles that
too far behind and too far ahead

a pounding drum talks to me
a foreign war wages somewhere
but here is now and
I'm quiet, peace is near